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How to tell the difference between a diamond and a simulant?

Gemology, which includes the field of gemstone identification among others, is a science that requires specialized studies and long-term experience. The separation of gemstones from imitations and synthetic materials is a very important skill that professional gemologists are often called upon to use in the modern market.

The diamond is perhaps the most famous and coveted gemstone and as such, there are numerous imitations of it on the market, each with its own characteristics. A diamond expert uses various techniques to identify the diamond, based on the properties of the diamond itself and their differentiation from those of imitations.

To the experienced eyes of the expert, the appearance of the stone under examination under special lighting gives the first clues to its identity. Diamonds have a specific brilliance and luster that results from its excellent natural properties, namely its hardness, toughness and chemical stability. Therefore, the way the diamond reflects light is very different from that of any other stone. Also, the combination of the natural optical properties with the style and cut quality of the diamond creates a specific “fire” in the diamond that differs from other stones.Knowledge of this characteristic helps the specialist in identification. (By “fire” we refer to the combination of coloured flashes of light that we observe in the cut stones).

Apart from the luster and brightness, the hardness of diamonds is also evident on their surface. To cut and polish diamonds, diamonds require special handling, as well as equipment that we do not use for any other stone. Only diamonds can scratch diamonds, so the cutting and polishing disc we use must be covered with diamond dust. The result of this cutting process is perfectly polished facets, very clear corners and sharp junctions between the facets, surface features found only in diamonds.

Diamonds, because of the natural environment in which they grow, contain specific inclusions, which the diamond expert analyses under magnification and uses to separate the diamond from imitations and from synthetic materials that may contain different types of inclusions.

Additional tests that we use for identification are the measurement of the specific gravity of the material if it is not set in jewellery, fluorescence in ultraviolet light, transparency, but also analyses that are carried out only in properly equipped gemological institutes, such as spectrometry among others.

Although there are basic differences between diamonds and their imitations, identification is not always easy, and certainly requires expertise and practical experience. Let us not forget that the correct knowledge of the subject and modern education are essential for a professional gemologist, as the gemstone industry is constantly and incessantly evolving. Therefore, in case we are not sure about the identity of a stone, it is always safe and correct to seek the consultancy of a trained and accredited gemologist.

Eva Kountouraki GG, AJP, JBM
Gemologist-Adamantologist, Jewellery Consultant

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