Emerald is the green variety of the mineral species Beryl, which also includes aquamarine, morganite, heliodor, and other varieties in various colors. Very little was known about the chemical and physical properties of emerald until the end of the 18th century, when Nicolas Louis Vauquelin published the first chemical analysis of the stone. This allowed the emerald to be classified as a beryl.
The famous Egyptian emerald mines, also known as the Cleopatra mines, were the world’s first source of emeralds until the discovery of important sources in South America in the 16th century. Experts estimate that the mines of Sikait and Zabara were operating since 3500 BC, while other estimates place the start of their operation in the 20th century BC. In the time of Alexander the Great, it was found that the Egyptian mines were worked by Greeks.
One of the stones synonymous with Cleopatra is the emerald. The legendary queen had understood long before anyone else that in order to inspire fear and respect, she had to look impressive, almost godlike. And she did this by owning many important gems and showing them off at every opportunity.
For the ancient Egyptians, the colour green was associated with fertility, the rebirth of the earth during the annual overflow of the waters of the Nile River, while the Pharaohs were buried with emeralds, used as a symbol of eternal life.
The ancient Greeks were known to love gemstones. The famous ring of Polycrates is believed to have contained an emerald. The Greek historian Herodotus mentions an emerald stele in the temple of Hercules in Tyre, and Plato includes emerald among other known gemstones of the period. According to Albertus Magnus, a famous medieval priest and scholar, Alexander the Great had incorporated an emerald in his belt which he considered magical.
The Romans were known for their love of precious stones, especially emeralds and pearls. While gold was mined in various provinces of the Roman Empire, emeralds, amethysts and pearls were imported from the East. Apart from their beauty and value, emeralds were also used for their healing properties. According to Pliny the Elder, Roman goldsmiths often soothed their tired eyes by looking through emeralds while they worked.
Ancient manuscripts show that the Indians worshipped emerald almost as much as the Egyptians. The Indian aristocracy kept the best emerald crystals and exchanged the rest for various gems from all parts of the world. Quality was paramount. They believed that only the finest gems and the purest gold would create the most suitable conditions and the greatest power to honour the gods and serve as amulets to keep evil away.
Gemologists were valued members of most royal courts in India. The Mughal emperor Aurangzeb (1658-1707) had three in his retinue: one to look after the gems, a second to assess their value and the third to grade them and identify imitations. The Mughals of India loved emeralds so much that they carved them with sacred texts and wore them as amulets. This led to the flourishing of the cutting industry of Jaipur.
Egypt was the main source of emeralds until they were discovered in greater abundance and better quality in the 1520s in the New World in present-day Colombia.
Emeralds were highly valued by the Aztec, Olmec, Mayan and Incan cultures of Middle and South America. It was mined from the depths of time, in areas of present-day Colombia.
In the mid-15th century, with the discovery of the New World by Columbus, a large number of Europeans travelled to South America and were enchanted by the green ornament worn by the natives. It was not long before they plundered the regions and sent the precious emeralds to Europe where they immediately became a status symbol in the high society of Europe.
The largest collection of emeralds is said to be found in the jewels of the Crown of Iran with pieces mounted on the royal belt (about 175 ct of emeralds), the Pahlabi crown, various necklaces, the Imperial Sword (about 110 ct of emeralds), and even the Nader throne itself which is clad with about 1500 carats of emeralds.
The formation of emerald requires a combination of highly unusual geological conditions and the presence of rare chemical elements found at different depths and in different rocks of the earth.
Most emeralds on the market have varying clarity characteristics. Almost all emeralds contain a few to many inclusions that are often visible to the naked eye. This typical appearance of the emerald is referred to as “jardin” in the market, (French for garden).
Colombia, Zambia, Brazil, Zambia and Zimbabwe provide us with the majority of emeralds on the international market. Additional sources are Pakistan, Afghanistan, Madagascar and Ethiopia, among others. In many of these countries, political/social problems combined with physical barriers (remote locations, prohibitive weather conditions, etc.) make it very difficult to bring emeralds to the market.
The wreck of the Nuestra Señora de Atocha entered the Guinness World Records as the most valuable shipwreck recovered, carrying around 40 tonnes of gold and silver and 32 kilograms of emeralds.
Eva Kountouraki GG, AJP, JBM
Gemology Instructor, Jewellery Consultant
