Today, with the evolution of diamond cutting methods, we can find diamonds cut in many different shapes and with various cutting styles in the global market. By the term cutting style we refer to the shape and arrangement of the facets- i.e. the flat polished surfaces – on the finished gem. The term brilliant cutting style refers to the style that has triangular and kite-shaped facets in a radial arrangement, while the term step cutting style describes the cuts that have square and rectangular facets in a parallel arrangement.
- Round brilliant cut
- This is the most traditional and popular shape and cutting that most buyers choose for their first diamond purchases. This cut has 57 or 58 facets and such proportions that it offers a perfect balance between the white brilliance and the colored flashes of light called fire, that we observe in the diamond.
- Princess cut
- Princess cut in the form we know it today appeared on the markets around 1960. It is a square or rectangular shape and brilliant style, so it offers a more modern version of the round brilliant with a similar sparkling appearance but with a sharp angular shape.
- Oval brilliant cut
- The oval shape in a brilliant style is a perfect choice for those who love round brilliants but prefer a more elongated shape with lower depth that covers a larger surface area on the finger. It is a shape that is very flattering for thin and long fingers. The brilliance and fire seen in the oval brilliant are similar to those of the round brilliant.
- Emerald cut
- Emerald cut is perhaps one of the most elegant choices we can make. It is a perfect fit for those who desire intense white brilliance from their diamond and less colored sparkle, as the proportions and shape of the facets of this cut enhance this optical property of the diamond. It is a cut suitable for high clarity diamonds.
- Radiant cut
- The Radiant cut first appeared in the late 1970s and has since become a favorite of those who love fancy yellow diamonds. It is a mixed type of cut that usually includes facets of both styles and has such proportions that it tends to enhance the yellow colour of fancy yellow diamonds. Its shape is rectangular with beveled corners but its brilliantly styled facets give the stone beautiful flashes of coloured light and intense brilliance.
- Asscher cut
- This unusual cut was created in the early 1900s in the Netherlands, and from the 1920s onwards it became a popular choice for Art Deco jewellery. In 2000 it experienced a renewed demand in the market, and rightly so! It is a cut similar to the classic emerald cut but its shape is square, of course with beveled corners. The Asscher cut offers an elegant yet robust and unusual look.
- Cushion brilliant cut
- The cushion cut, as its name suggests, has a soft curved square shape reminiscent of a cushion. It is an elegant and romantic choice for those who prefer square stones but without sharp edges and corners. It is cut in the brilliant style so in the stones cut in this shape we see intense flashes of colored light and beautiful brilliance.
Eva Kountouraki GG, AJP, JBM
Gemology Instructor, Jewellery Consultant
